It’s been a year since my trip to Gantofta and I think the time has come to write about it. All those months I’ve kept saving it for later, hoping the memories would age like a fine wine, but instead they’ve started to wither. It’s really hard now to excavate the whole experience intact from the depths of my mind. I mostly remember the rain and my feet getting wet but also the exhilarating freedom and joy I felt after each of my tiny discoveries.
One rainy Monday in March I’ve decided to hop on a train and ramble around the Råån’s valley. My hike started at Gantofta’s station since the village is directly accessible by train from Malmö. The weather was fine by the time of my arrival but, as soon as I’ve headed for Bårslöv, it started to rain again. Undiscouraged by moisture I crossed the river and continued towards Stenlösorna Dolmen.
Stenlösorna is hidden on a neglected meadow behind private premises on the left of the road to Bårslöv. It’s overgrown with bushes and guarded by a hawthorn tree. Hawthorns symbolism in folklore is somewhat similar to an elder; it too stands at the threshold of the Otherworld. The dolmen’s capstone is covered in lichens and moss, though still some cup marks should be visible. As per usual I haven’t noticed any.
After a brief investigation I’ve turned back towards Gantofta and followed the road leading to Fjärestad. It was a 3-4 km walk along a less busy road during the worst rain; then a quick stroll through the Fjärestad Gård where the time has stopped. After a while I’ve found myself on a gravel road that led through the sleeping fields. An overgrown Bronze Age burial mound can be seen from there; looking like a crown in the middle of a field.
The rain stopped immediately after I’ve reached Fastmårupsdösen. The universe smiled at me – I could easily snap some photos. Similarly to Stenlösorna, I’ve learned nothing about it since the place hasn’t been excavated nor any on-site information is provided. I can only rely upon the dry field notes I’ve found on raa.se. In this case the capstone is also adorned with cup marks.
I’ve taken off my raincoat and had a small fika to recover my energy. I’ve had to decide whether I want to go back to Gantofta by the exact same way I came, or take a risk and go down the valley and cross the railway. Since I knew that the dolmen is aligned with Gantoftas Sliprännor I went with the latter.
So I went down the soggy meadow towards the railway. The railway itself wasn’t a problem to cross as I’ve thought before. Though a 3 meter wide river was. Surprise, surprise! There wasn’t any bridge I could take so I’ve decided to find one and walked down the stream.
As I was walking along the river I’ve crossed the Nature Reserve’s territory a couple of times. The hike would be so much easier and shorter if I wouldn’t have to crawl under the electric fences here and there. Though it definitely was fun. At this point my boots were totally soaked and I’ve started to get hungry.
In prehistoric times the region held an important central function and had been an attractive communication hub because of it’s incredibly fertile soils and close proximity to the sea. It’s quite clear from the number of visible ancient remains mainly in the form of a megalithic graves, Bronze Age and Iron Age burial mounds, settlements and fort ruins.
Closer to Gantofta, almost at the end of the nature reserve area, I’ve stumbled upon a mound with two old oak trees (found a noose hanging from one) with an unnamed passage grave in the middle. Unfortunately it hasn’t been restored yet, though it has been excavated in 1902. Back then archeologists found a few scattered deposits of grave goods: amber beads, flint tools and daggers, charred human bones, horse teeth, whetstones and ornamented pottery shards.
Just after I’ve made my final discovery, a wooden bridge appeared out of thin air. I’ve completed the quest. I could finally cross Råån safely and head back to the village.
I had a satisfying fika at Cafe Dalstugan. After talking to the lovely owner I’ve decided to walk through Gantofta to see Gantoftadösen again.
The dolmen can be found just at the end of the village. It’s also known as Jättestugan (Giant’s House). It was restored as the capstone has been broken in two. It features some cup marks as well, very visible this time.
I’ve visited Gantoftadösen already during the summer of 2017. The hike doesn’t have to end there, though last year it did for me. I headed to catch my train home. However, said summer, after continuing down the road for 15-20 mins I’ve reached the last stop on the map – Gantoftas Sliprännor.
The mysterious Giant’s Grooves are hidden in a tiny ravine under a lush foliage. This place is unreal. Like an enchanted emerald chamber; radiating green and moisture. There is a brook at the bottom too. One of the sandstone slopes is covered in peculiar grooves and cup marks.
It is unknown how, when or why the cuts have been created. They were once thought to be made by neolithic folk sharpening their flint knives and axes. Modern research shows that they were probably caused by a rotating motion instead, perhaps using a wheel or pendulum. Today it is believed that those cuts are the remains of magical and religious rituals.
Historical maps of the village of Gantofta show that during the Middle Ages there was an increased interest in owning a narrow plot of land right there, but the reasons behind it remain unknown.
Grooves are common in northwestern Skåne, especially in Kullaberga, but they can also be found on Gotland where they appear mostly on single boulders. In folk belief some of them are called sword sharpening stones.
Thicket Quest 